Plant Extracts (PE) refer to plant products with small biological molecules and polymers as the main body, which are formed for the purpose of separating and purifying one or more effective components in plant raw materials by physical, chemical and biological means. Compared with traditional cosmetics, cosmetics prepared with plant extracts as active ingredients have many advantages: overcoming the shortcomings of traditional cosmetics relying on chemical synthesis, making the products safer; Natural components are more easily absorbed by the skin, making the product more effective; More prominent functionality and so on.
Only by choosing the appropriate plant extracts and adding the appropriate amount of plant extracts to cosmetic products can we give full play to its role. The main functions of plant extracts in cosmetics are: moisturizing, anti-aging, freckle removal, sun protection, anti-corrosion, etc., and plant extracts are green and safe.
Moisturizing effect
The moisturizing performance of cosmetics is mainly achieved by two ways: one is the water-locking effect of hydrogen bonds formed between humectants and water molecules; The other is that oil forms a closed film on the skin surface.
The so-called moisturizing cosmetics means that cosmetics contain moisturizing ingredients to maintain the moisture content of the stratum corneum, so as to restore the luster and elasticity of the skin. According to its characteristics, moisturizing cosmetics are mainly divided into two types: one is to use a water-retaining substance that can strongly combine with water on the skin surface to moisturize the stratum corneum, which is called a humectant, such as glycerol; The other is a substance insoluble in water, which forms a lubricating film on the skin surface, which plays a sealing role to prevent water loss, so that the stratum corneum maintains a certain amount of water, which is called emollient or conditioner, such as vaseline, oil and wax.
There are quite a few plants in plants that have the effect of hydrating and moisturizing, such as aloe, seaweed, olive and chamomile, which have good moisturizing effect. Zhang Qi and others extracted aloin and studied its moisturizing performance: aloin has good moisturizing and moisture absorption performance. And it has a certain linear relationship with time. The moisture absorption performance of aloin in high humidity environment is better than that in low humidity environment. Adding aloe moisturizing ingredients into moisturizing skin care products is non-toxic and harmless, green and healthy.
Anti-aging effect
With the increase of age, the skin began to show aging, mainly including the decrease of collagen, elastin, mucopolysaccharide and other contents in the skin to varying degrees, the atrophy of blood vessels supplying skin nutrition, the decrease of elasticity of blood vessel walls, the gradual thinning and swelling of skin epidermis, and the decrease of subcutaneous fat, which intuitively manifested as wrinkles, chloasma and senile plaques.
At present, previous studies on the causes of human aging have summarized the following aspects:
First, the increase and aging of free radicals. Free radicals are atoms or molecules with unpaired electrons, which are generated due to the homogeneous cleavage of covalent bonds. They have high chemical activity, and undergo peroxidation with unsaturated lipids to generate Lipidperoxide (LPO). The final product of free radicals, malondialdehyde (MDA), can react with most substances in living cells, resulting in the decrease of biofilm permeability, damage to D-NA molecules and cell damage.
Second, ultraviolet B (UVB) and ultraviolet A (UVA) in sunlight can lead to photoaging of skin. Ultraviolet radiation mainly causes skin aging through the following mechanisms: ① DNA; damage; ② Cross-linking collagen; (3) reducing the immune response by inducing the inhibitory pathway of antigen stimulating response; ④ The highly reactive free radicals interact with various intracellular structures to cause damage to cells and tissues; ⑤ Directly inhibit the function of epidermal Langerhans cells, cause photoinhibition, and weaken the immune function of skin. In addition, non-enzymatic glycosylation, metabolic disorders, matrix metalloproteinase aging and so on will also affect skin aging.
As a natural elafin, plant extracts, such as Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi, Sanguisorba officinalis L. seeds, Moringa oleifera L., Polygonum hydropiper L., Forsythia suspensa, Salvia miltiorrhiza Bge, Angelica sinensis, etc., have been the focus of research in recent years. LEE JinYoung et al. studied the differentiation and hydration of Salvia Miltiorrhiza extract on skin epidermis. The results showed that Salvia Miltiorrhiza extract (ESM) could stimulate the expression of filaggrin in normal human keratinocytes and AmoRe Skin, thus enhancing the activity of epidermal differentiation and hydration, and playing an anti-aging and moisturizing role. Toshiya Masuda and others extracted effective anti-free radical DPPH from edible plants and applied it to suitable cosmetic products, with good results. Li Xiaojing et al. extracted Polygonum cuspidatum by hot water immersion method to obtain crude extract, and then obtained crude extract by polyamide column chromatography, and made a series of qualitative and quantitative analysis. The results show that Polygonum cuspidatum extract has certain inhibitory effect on elastase, thus playing an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle role.
Freckle removing effect
The skin color difference of human body usually depends on the content and distribution of melanin in epidermis, the blood circulation of dermis and the thickness of stratum corneum. The dark skin or the formation of dark spots are mainly affected by the accumulation of melanin, skin oxidation, keratinocyte deposition, poor skin microcirculation and toxin deposition in the body.
At present, the effect of freckle removal is mainly achieved by affecting the formation and proliferation of melanin, and one is tyrosinase inhibitor. The conversion from tyrosine to dopa and from dopa to dopaquinone is catalyzed by tyrosinase, which directly controls the start and speed of melanin synthesis and determines whether the following steps can be carried out.
When various factors act on tyrosinase to increase its activity, melanin synthesis increases, and when tyrosinase activity is inhibited, melanin synthesis decreases. Brenner M et al. showed that arbutin can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and block the synthesis of dopa in the concentration range without cytotoxicity of melanin, thus inhibiting the production of melanin. Liang Cheng, Yeon Jae Ho and others studied the chemical constituents in the rhizome of black tiger and their whitening effect, and evaluated the skin irritation.
The results showed that 17 compounds (HLH-1 ~ 17) were isolated, among which HLH-3 can inhibit the formation of melanin, thus achieving the whitening effect, and the extract has low irritation to skin. Ren Hongrong and others have proved through experiments that the alcohol extract of perfume lotus has obvious inhibitory effect on the formation of melanin. As a new plant-derived whitening agent, it can be mixed with appropriate cream to make functional cosmetics with skin care, anti-aging and freckle removal.
There is also a melanocyte toxic agent, such as endothelin antagonist found in plant extract, which can competitively inhibit the combination of endothelin and melanocyte membrane receptor, inhibit the differentiation and proliferation of melanocytes, and thus achieve the purpose of inhibiting melanin production caused by ultraviolet radiation. Frédéric Bonté et al. showed that the new Brassocattleya orchid extract can effectively inhibit the proliferation of melanocytes, and it has obvious effects on whitening and brightening the skin when added to a suitable cosmetic formula. Zhang Mu and others extracted and studied the extracts of Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi, Polygonum cuspidatum and Sanguisorba officinalis. The results showed that the extracts could inhibit cell proliferation in different degrees, significantly inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in cells, and significantly reduce the content of melanin in cells, thus achieving the effect of freckle removal and whitening.
Sunscreen function
Generally speaking, sunscreen agents commonly used in sunscreen cosmetics are divided into two categories: one is ultraviolet absorber, which is an organic compound, such as ketone; The other is ultraviolet screening agent, that is, physical sunscreen agent, such as TiO2 and ZnO. However, these two types of sunscreens can cause skin irritation, skin allergy and blockage of skin pores. However, many natural plants have a good absorption effect on ultraviolet rays, and indirectly enhance the sunscreen performance of products by reducing the radiation damage caused by ultraviolet rays to the skin.
In addition, compared with traditional chemical and physical sunscreen agents, the sunscreen components in plant extracts have the advantages of less skin irritation, photochemical stability, safety and reliability. Zheng Hongyan and others selected three natural plant extracts, namely dermatan, resveratrol and arbutin, and studied the safety of their compound sunscreen cosmetics and the protective effects of UVB and UVA through human experiments. The results show that some natural plant extracts show good ultraviolet protection effect. Directions The sunscreen properties of tartary buckwheat flavonoids were studied. It was found that the application of flavonoids in the actual emulsion was compounded with physical and chemical sunscreens, which provided a theoretical basis for the future application of plant sunscreens in cosmetics.
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