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I. Introduction
Against the backdrop of the upgrading of beauty consumption, consumers' demands for hair care have shifted from basic cleansing to enhanced functionality, especially the demand for thicker and longer eyelashes, driving a surge in the research and development of related active ingredients. Peptide ingredients, due to their advantages such as high bioactivity, strong targeting, and good safety, have become a research hotspot in the cosmetics field. Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, as a signal peptide that specifically acts on hair follicles, achieves precise regulation of the hair follicle growth cycle through its unique molecular structure design. Its significant efficacy in promoting eyelash growth has been verified by multiple experiments.
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, also known as eyelash peptide, is a lipid-soluble oligopeptide compound formed by myristic acid and a pentapeptide linked by an amide bond. Compared with traditional hair care ingredients, this ingredient can penetrate the stratum corneum of the skin to reach the root of the hair follicle, exerting its effects through mechanisms such as activating key gene expression and regulating growth factor secretion, characterized by a clear target and long-lasting effects. This article aims to integrate existing research findings and comprehensively analyze the core characteristics and application value of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, providing theoretical support for its standardized application and innovative development in the cosmetics field.
II. Basic Characteristics of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
2.1 Chemical Structure and Molecular Information
The chemical structure of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 exhibits typical "fatty acid-peptide" complex characteristics. Its molecular formula is C₄₁H₈₁N₉O₆, its molecular weight is 796.14, and its CAS Registry number is 959610-30-1. The core structure of this component consists of two parts: a lipophilic myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid) group and a hydrophilic pentapeptide segment. The amino acid sequence of the pentapeptide segment is Lys-Leu-Ala-Lys-Lys, represented by the single-letter sequence Myr-KLAKK-NH₂. The terminal amidation modification enhances the molecular stability and biological activity.
This amphiphilic structure is the key basis for the bioefficacy of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17: the lipophilic myristic acid group helps the ingredient penetrate the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum, improving bioavailability; the hydrophilic peptide portion can bind to specific receptors on the surface of hair follicle cells, initiating subsequent signal transduction processes. The ingredient appears as a white powder or crystals, with low water solubility (approximately 1 g/L), and good stability in acidic environments (pH 3.5-4.5), suitable for storage in a cool, dry place.
2.2 Synthesis Process and Preparation Characteristics
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is prepared by chemical synthesis, with the core step being the acylation reaction of myristic acid with pentapeptide-17. The specific process is as follows: First, a pentapeptide chain (KLAKK) is synthesized via solid-phase synthesis, and after purification, a high-purity pentapeptide raw material is obtained. Then, myristic acid is activated and undergoes an amidation reaction with the amino group of the pentapeptide under controlled temperature and pH conditions to form the target product. Finally, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is purified by methods such as column chromatography to obtain a purity that meets cosmetic raw material standards.
This synthetic process has the following characteristics: First, the reaction conditions are mild, effectively preserving the bioactivity of the peptide; second, the product has high purity, and the impurity content can be controlled through the purification process; third, the synthesis process does not require the use of animal-derived ingredients, making it a vegan-friendly raw material, and no animal testing was conducted, meeting the ethical requirements of modern cosmetic raw materials.
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III. Mechanism of Action of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
The eyelash growth cycle consists of three phases: anagen (growth phase), catagen (transitional phase), and telogen (resting phase). The length of the anagen phase directly determines the length of the eyelashes, while the activity of the hair follicle affects the density and strength of the eyelashes. Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 regulates the eyelash follicle growth cycle through multiple synergistic pathways. Its core mechanisms include activating keratin gene expression, enhancing follicle nutrient supply, regulating growth factor secretion, and prolonging the anagen phase.
3.1 Activation of Keratin Gene Expression
Keratin is the main component of the eyelash shaft, accounting for 85%-90% of its weight. Its synthesis directly determines the thickness and strength of the eyelashes. As a signal peptide, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 can directly penetrate the cell membrane of hair follicle cells and bind to the keratin gene regulatory region in the cell nucleus, significantly activating the expression of keratin genes (such as KRT3, KRT19, and KRTAP1.5).
In vitro experiments confirmed that under the action of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 at a concentration of 10 ppm, the expression levels of multiple keratin genes in human epidermal keratinocytes increased by 40%-160% compared with the control group, with the expression level of keratin 19 (KRT19) showing the most significant increase. Activation of keratin genes promotes keratin synthesis and polymerization, making the eyelash shaft structure denser, which not only increases the diameter of the eyelashes but also enhances their resistance to breakage and reduces eyelash loss.
3.2 Enhancing Hair Follicle Nutrient Supply
Normal growth of hair follicles requires a sufficient supply of nutrients (such as amino acids, vitamins, and minerals) and oxygen, and the blood circulation around the hair follicles directly affects the efficiency of nutrient delivery. Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 can enhance local blood circulation and improve the hair follicle's ability to absorb nutrients by promoting the dilation of capillaries around the hair follicles.
Simultaneously, this component can also regulate the metabolic activity of hair follicle cells, enhancing the efficiency of cell transport of nutrients such as glucose and amino acids, providing sufficient energy and material basis for eyelash growth. Animal experiments showed that after applying a formula containing Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, the density of capillaries around hair follicles in the shaved areas of mice increased significantly, and the hair growth rate increased by 61%-95% compared to the control group, confirming its enhancing effect on hair follicle nutrient supply.
3.3 Prolonging the Hair Follicle Growth Phase
The growth phase of eyelashes is relatively short, only 30-45 days, with approximately 60%-80% of eyelashes in the growth phase, which is the main reason for limited eyelash length. Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 prolongs the duration of the growth phase by regulating hair follicle cell cycle regulatory genes (such as p21 and Bcl-2).
Clinical data show that continuous use of products containing Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 can prolong the eyelash growth phase by 20%-30%, allowing more eyelashes to enter an active growth state, thus significantly increasing the overall length and density of eyelashes. Simultaneously, this ingredient can reduce the proportion of resting eyelashes, decrease the natural shedding rate, and further enhance the appearance of thicker eyelashes.
IV. Cosmetic Applications of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
4.1 Main Application Scenarios
Based on its significant hair growth-promoting effects, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is primarily used in three categories of cosmetics: eyelash care, eyebrow care, and hair care.
In eyelash care products, this ingredient is a core active ingredient in eyelash growth serums, eyelash essences, and functional mascaras. It acts directly on the hair follicles at the root of the eyelashes, resulting in longer, thicker, and stronger eyelashes. In eyebrow care products, it is commonly used in eyebrow growth serums and eyebrow essences to improve sparse eyebrows and incomplete eyebrow shapes. In hair care products, it can be added to shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, and hair growth serums to improve fragile hair, hair loss, and thinning hair.
Furthermore, this ingredient can also be used in comprehensive eye care products to enhance the expressiveness of the eyes by improving the condition of eyelashes and eyebrows.
4.2 Usage Guidelines and Precautions
The use of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 cosmetics must adhere to the following guidelines: First, application method: For eyelash and eyebrow care products, it is recommended to use once daily at night. After cleansing the eye/eyebrow area, apply the product precisely to the hair roots, avoiding contact with the eyes. When using in the morning, allow the product to dry completely before applying makeup. Second, usage cycle: Due to the long hair follicle growth cycle, it is recommended to use continuously for 4-6 weeks or more to achieve significant results. Long-term use can maintain the effect. Third, compatibility: Avoid using with oil-based makeup removers, as this may affect the absorption and effectiveness of the ingredients.
Furthermore, once opened, the product should be sealed and refrigerated. The shelf life is approximately 24 months. It should be used within the shelf life to ensure the activity of the ingredients.
V. Safety of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Multiple in vitro and in vivo safety studies have confirmed that Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is a cosmetic ingredient with a high degree of safety: In cytotoxicity tests, this ingredient showed no toxicity to human epidermal cells at normal usage concentrations; in skin irritation tests, no skin erythema, edema, or other irritation reactions were observed; in eye irritation tests, it was non-irritating to the ocular mucosa; and in allergy tests, it did not induce any skin allergic reactions.
VI. Future Development Trends and Prospects
With the increasing demand from consumers for natural, efficient, and safe cosmetic ingredients, the future development of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 will exhibit the following trends: First, the development of complex peptide formulations, combining it with various active peptides (such as myristoyl hexapeptide-16 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1) and natural active ingredients (such as plant extracts and polysaccharides) to further enhance efficacy and reduce usage concentrations; second, the expansion of application scenarios, beyond traditional eyelash, eyebrow, and hair care, with the potential for development in men's cosmetics such as beard care; third, innovation in delivery systems, using technologies such as nanocarriers and liposomes to further improve the skin penetration efficiency and targeting of the ingredient, thereby enhancing efficacy; fourth, the deepening of basic research, strengthening research on the precise localization of the ingredient's target sites and the long-term safety tracking and evaluation. Furthermore, with the development of synthetic biology technology, the synthesis process of this ingredient is expected to be further optimized, achieving cost reduction and increased production, promoting its widespread application in mid-to-high-end cosmetics.
Conclusion
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, a synthetic peptide with proven hair growth-promoting effects, boasts an amphiphilic molecular structure that ensures excellent skin penetration. Through a synergistic effect of activating keratin gene expression, enhancing follicle nutrient supply, regulating growth factor secretion, and prolonging the hair follicle growth phase, it significantly improves the length, density, and strength of eyelashes, eyebrows, and hair. Multiple clinical and animal studies have confirmed its efficacy and high safety profile, with no significant toxic side effects.
This ingredient has broad application prospects in the cosmetics field, particularly in eyelash care and hair repair products, where it holds core application value. In the future, through the development of compound formulations, innovation in delivery systems, and optimization of synthetic processes, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is expected to achieve greater breakthroughs in the hair care cosmetics field, providing consumers with more efficient and safer hair care solutions.
As a provider of premium Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 CAS 959610-30-1, Xi'an Faithful BioTech Co., Ltd. leverages state-of-the-art production technology and rigorous quality assurance to meet international pharmaceutical requirements. Our dedication to superior quality, cost-effective pricing, and tailored technical support has made us the preferred collaborator for healthcare professionals and researchers worldwide. To obtain detailed specifications and application guidance for our Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 Powder, contact our technical team at sales4@faithfulbio.com and explore how our offerings can enhance your product formulations.