How do we understand the efficacy of plant extracts?

Sep 14, 2023

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When it comes to functional skin care ingredients, we all know something about chemical synthetic ingredients and plant extracts. For example: nicotinamide, vitamin A alcohol, polypeptide and so on, these are the representatives of chemically synthesized components, and their efficacy has been proved. The ingredients extracted from plants are famous for being mild, natural and non-irritating, and many people don't recognize the efficacy of plant extracts, even think that they are dispensable, and even complain that businesses cheat consumers and earn undue profits.

 

1.Plant extracts in skin care products are far more complex and powerful than imagined.

As we all know, plant extract refers to a product with small biological molecules and polymers as the main body, which is formed for the purpose of separating and purifying one or more effective components in plant raw materials by physical, chemical and biological means. A plant has different parts, and the components of each part are different, so the extracted things are different. Therefore, the range of plant extracts is wide and the components are complex, which cannot be simply explained. According to the Name Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials (2015 edition), 8,783 kinds of used cosmetic raw materials were published, of which about 2,000 kinds were plant raw materials, which claimed to contain more than 64% plants in the domestic skin care market.

 

Is the effect of plant extract poor?

The components in plant extracts are quite complex, and it is difficult to extract them, and sometimes they are synergistic, so a single component may not have a better effect. And many efficient skin care ingredients are derived from plant extracts: for example, xylose, the front-end raw material of Bosone, is extracted from European beech trees; Astaxanthin, a strong antioxidant, comes from the algae plant Haematococcus pluvialis; Whitening Montana arbutin, extracted from the leaves of arbutin; Salicylic acid, the favorite of oil pox muscle, is extracted from willow bark, and so on.

 

Is plant extract equal to pure nature?

In fact, this problem is exactly the same as our inefficiency above. "Pure natural" is not a good thing for skin care products, and it will bring risks to the skin. Just like applying raw aloe directly to the face, many people may cause allergies, but the allergic rate of purified aloe skin care products is very low, so in order to enhance the efficacy and reduce irritation, researchers usually optimize natural raw materials. Therefore, most plant extracts will be synthesized and optimized in the laboratory to ensure stable purity and quality, which is a safer and more effective method.

 

Plant extracts have always been a highly technical field. Many well-known foreign products will contain many ingredients of plant extracts. For commercial secret reasons, although some ingredients are clear, they will be written as XX extracts, so that their own technology will not be leaked. Some cheap brands of plant extracts are often limited by the quality of raw materials and technological requirements, and most of them are just "rough extraction", and several plants are simply stuffed into the ingredient list to increase the selling point. The end result is either useless or embarrassing. Instead of choosing these unreliable products, it is better to choose "clear" chemical synthetic ingredients such as peptide and nicotinamide to be effective and safe.


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