Deoxyarbutin, as a new generation of brightening and whitening active agents, is mainly used in advanced whitening cosmetics. Deoxyarbutin powder is a very effective tyrosinase inhibitor, which has an obvious blocking effect on the formation of melanin in the skin. The inhibitory effect of Deoxyarbutin on tyrosinase is obviously superior to other whitening active agents. The whitening effect is 350 times that of arbutin, 150 times that of kojic acid, and 10 times that of hydroquinone. Compared with the former, It is safer and more stable. It is not only non-toxic and non-irritating to the skin but also easily absorbed by the skin. It can show whitening and brightening effects with a small amount of use. It is considered a very safe cosmetic whitening active agent.
Introduction to arbutin
Arbutin (c12h16o7) is an ingredient extracted from the leaves of Rhododendron plants. It is also found in pear, wheat, and other plants. Because it can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase (tyrosinase), thus hindering the formation of melanin, it is effective for whitening, so it is used in cosmetics and skincare products. Arbutin also has the function of diuresis and urinary tract sterilization, so it is also used in urinary tract disinfectants.
Arbutin α and β Two types, α The inhibitory ratio of type A to tyrosinase activity β The type strength is about 10 times. Although arbutin has a whitening effect, improper dosage may promote melanin production.
On the role of deoxyarbutin
As one of the derivatives of arbutin, Deoxyarbutin is called D-Arbutin, which can effectively inhibit the action of tyramine enzymes in skin tissue. According to the research, its potency is even 10 times that of hydroquinone and 350 times that of general arbutin. In the animal skin test, this d-arbutin can quickly and effectively whiten the skin, and the effect can still be maintained for nearly 8 weeks after the use is stopped.
In human clinical research, topical use of d-arbutin for 12 weeks can obtain an obvious skin desalination effect, and it has a good effect on improving the sun rotation exposure spots and dark skin tone.
The clinical research on d-arbutin further points out that many tyramine inhibitors have been used in the past to reduce skin lesions caused by melanin accumulation. D-arbutin manufactured by QSAR (quantitative structure-activity relationships) technology is a very effective tyramine inhibitor, which has an obvious blocking effect on melanin formation in the skin. According to the test results of human skin melanocytes, the safe concentration of d-arbutin used can be more than 4 times that of hydroquinone under the condition of maintaining 95% cell survival, which indicates that the toxicity of d-arbutin to melanocytes is much safer than that of hydroquinone.
Experiments on human skin keratinocytes (the main cells in the epidermis) and fibroblasts (the dermis) showed that d-arbutin was still much less toxic to cells than hydroquinone. What needs to be made clear is that compared with hydroquinone, d-arbutin can achieve a better effect than high concentration hydroquinone in inhibiting melanin formation at relatively low concentrations.
About the side effects of this product
Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone (hydroquinone). Let's first learn about hydroquinone, which can interfere with melanin and play a whitening role. However, hydroquinone is a toxic chemical product, and its toxicity even exceeds phenol (phenol). If adults take 1g of hydroquinone by mistake, they will have headache, dizziness, tinnitus, pale face, cyanosis, vomiting, abdominal pain, suffocation, dyspnea, tachycardia, and muscle twitching. In severe cases, hematemesis, hematuria, and hemolytic jaundice may occur. The skin may cause dermatitis due to primary irritation and allergy, and may cause skin pigment loss. The raw material of arbutin used for synthesis is hydroquinone (hydroquinone). It is because it is irritating and can cause irritative dermatitis and pigment precipitation that it is listed as a prohibited cosmetic in many countries. The limit on the use of arbutin in skin care products is 7%. Of course, it does not rule out some small workshops. Therefore, when choosing, you must polish your eyes, stay rational, and don't be greedy. People such as sensitive skin and pregnant women should be careful to use skin care products containing arbutin, and dry skin should also be carefully selected. The utilization rate should also be well controlled.